The African Safari - part I - the Tortilis Camp in Amboseli - Day 3

Day 3

I woke up at around 4:00AM. A fantastic lighting storm was developing in the direction of Mount Kili, in the thick of black-gray clouds surrounding its peaks. Lighting veins of incredible colors reaching into each and every direction (some were bright enough to illuminate the smaller Kili peak). Right then, for the first time in my life I saw a radial lighting - a burst of lighting resembling that of a bursting firework. About five minutes later a wave of cool, moist breeze moved through our tent.

Another beautiful morning in Amboseli. Looking towards the Tanzanian border.

Leperes points out that this was the same elephant we saw yesterday afternoon (almost twenty miles away). Leperes thinks it is heading towards the herd that we spotted at the horizon. He asks us if we would like to go see them; and off we go...

About ten minutes later we are welcomed by a small family of elephants (and a few-months-old baby elephant).

Our kids in close proximity to the same Elephant family. Our guides are expert interpreters of Elephant body language and assured us it was totally safe (as long as you are not a threat to them).

A lucky photo.

Same Elephant family in aptly named elephant grass (the dried grass is used as thatch and even as bedding)

Always on the move

One of the most aggressive animals of the Safari

An interesting amalgamation of Safari wildlife.

A lone cape buffalo and his faithful bird companion

Always walking single file

Constant reminders of life and death of Safari

Past the entry into Baboon conservancy (near Amboseli) we are greeted by this...

Baboon habitat in the same conservancy

Outside the conservancy our guide spots a trio of relatively fast moving Elephants.

Young cape buffalo. When in heat, buffalo will charge just about anything. The only defense (as Leperes describes) is to either climb a tree (not an exciting proposotion if you remeber those thorns) or lay as flat on the ground as you can. The Buffalo will try and leak your exposed body parts (think Masai attire for a second) so to make you either roll or lift yourself up - it is then that it will use its sharp horns.

A particularly curious (of us) Zebra. Notice long, afternoon shadows. We learned that Zebra communicate with each other (aside from very interesting calls) by their ears - almost like Maritime flag semaphore.

Approaching another small family of elephants in late afteroon

 

The African Safari - part I - the Tortilis Camp in Amboseli - Day 2

Day 2

This morning I woke up with the first sounds of the African Safari's alarm clock - a serenade of most amazing (and unfamiliar) bird songs and calls. It was just beginning to lighten over the eastern horizon. I made my way outside (trying not to make a lot of noise - sound travels far and wide in the vast openness of the Safari). The air smelled incredibly crisp and very fragrant (my sister later noted the scents of wild sage, mint and hay). Standing here, motionless, waiting for the first ray of light burst over of the horizon I thought just how surreal this is - to witness the birth of a new day half a world away. I couldn't help but smile. Sunrises close to Equator are very quick or so we are told and sure enough in a few minutes' time the sky was perfectly blue.

Early morning over a marsh close to Tortilis camp

Majestic Kilimanjaro rising over the cloud cover.

A heard of Zebra in the morning light

A mated pair of Ostriches. Very weary of our presence and always keeping a wide birth of our jeeps

A cape Buffalo, chest-deep in the marshy lagoon. The water in the marshes is fed by underground springs from the Mount Kilimanjaro. Some marshes are four to five feet deep - almost impossible to predict how deep is a particular marsh from a distance; the presence of Hippo's ears just above the water is a good indication of the water's depth. 

An adult Hippo in the same marsh.

When you see one Hippo you'll be sure to spot another in close proximity. A few interesting facts about Hippos that we learned: Hippos give birth under water, they spend most of the day in the marshes feeding on algae and grass; they leave the marshes after dark to look for better grounds

Impala Antelope, a lone male, brave enough to forage in the thick of the bush.

An interesting shot. Notice how tall the elephant grass is; how easy it is for a predator to conceal itself here

Fully grown male Giraffe. Leperes asks us to use our binos and count the horns on this Giraffe. We count three. He counts six in total - most are known as pseudo-horns or bony growth. Giraffe's only defense is its powerful hind legs - a Giraffe's kick is estimated to be around 500kg per square inch. Leperes mentions that he's seen Lions being seriously injured or even killed by Giraffe's kick.

A herd of Zebras and a foal. Notice that in Amboseli region Zebras have fewer and wider stripes. Also, notice the striation of the landscape - from the parched white (bottom front) to lush green (then repeat)

Gray Heron, on a constant look out for a tasty morsel.

Leperes slows down our Jeep to a crawl. He spots something in the trees to the left of us. Our cameras are ready to shoot away. Everyone is eager to spot our first lion. Amboseli is known for its elephant groups or families and not so much for lions. But Leperes wisely predicts "If not today than tomorrow, if not tomorrow than certainly a day after."
                                                                         

Leperes pointing to a herd of Zebra that are about to cross the road ahead

K and D in the safari Jeep driven and guided by Joseph.

Regardless of the animal you encounter on the Safari trails keeping the human noises down is what gets the animals closer or at least doesn't chase them away. As our Masai guides explained to us - most animals don't see individual people in jeeps, but rather the jeep itself as one animal.

A lone Gnu making its way across an arid plain as we head out to a local Masai village (about a ten-minute drive from the Tortilis camp)

Masai men and warriors greet us outside their village with rhythmic stepping and chanting

Masai women follow their men. Their chanting is very rhythmic and melodic. A Masai can easily tell which tribe any Masai man or a woman belong to. Masai are not bound to their villages of birth and can choose a wife or a husband from a different village. But the first wife is always chosen by the elders.

Hi A!!

A and K are joining the women's dance

E and K are fantastic jumpers

K is ready for a spectacular jump; T's expression says it all...

Cultural exchange between Mama Safari and a Masai woman

N and A are having a blast

T, A and D are practicing their ceremonial jumps; J is practicing using Masai club

H is practicing chants with a young Masai woman

Inside the Masai village's thorny walls. The inner fenced circle is used to keep live stock safe from predators (a smaller fenced circle). Masai huts are built by a consortium of women and only when they are in agreement. Another interesting fact: if a Masai man dies inside his hut everything is left inside his hut untouched (including the body); then the entire village moves to a new location. Masai are nomadic tribes and do move (on average) every ten years.The goods are exchanged at the traveling markets that visit them on a certain time of a week. Masai trade in goats, sheep, cows and their crafts.

N and A and the Masai women are amused at the men and their jumping

You go T!!

A brief break for group photos

A is having a great time!

D is offered three cows for his daughter's hand. D is "thinking" about it.

We are given a quick primer before going inside the village. Sun is relentless at the Equator, casting virtually no shadows during high noon. Nothing tastes better here than a bottle of cool water. You'll need serious sunscreen here, a good hat and at least two bottles of water (heat and constant breeze mean quick dehydration)

Inside the Masai village. Notice the location of the doors and their turbine nozzle like shape. Despite high daytime temperatures the inside of the huts are well ventilated by constant breezes from the direction of Mount Kili. Another incredible contrast - scorching mid-day sun and actually cool breeze

We are shown a quick way of starting a fire using a stick of sand reed, a plank of a locally harvested tree bark and fibers from a ball of dried elephant dung (when completely dried, the dung doesn't smell like anything)

Starting a fire the traditional way is done by several people to keep the wear on one's hands minimal and is done at least three or four times daily.
After about a seven-hour excursion (an early morning Safari and a visit to this Masai village) we are ready to return to camp. 
Our guides predict a clearing of the cloud cover for this afternoon's Safari and even though we are somewhat tired we eagerly agree.   

Sure enough the cloud cover parts to reveal the majestic Mount Kili (as the locals call it).
The vistas here are incredible - this photo doesn't do it justice in the least. It's just breathtaking in every direction. Leperes is right, it's not always about looking at it all through a camera's lens, but seating back to take your time and appreciate the beauty of the Safari.
Another fact I learned - Safari is referred to Kenyan parks and preserves and Serengeti is to Tanzanian

A small family of elephants about to cross the dirt road. The elephants are practically always on the move covering many miles a day. It's incredible that these giants walk almost silently - their padded feet produce virtually no sound. An average life span of an African elephant is about 60 years.

Our wait was rewarded!

Onward... into the sunset

Sunset of our day 2 in Amboseli National Park

Awesome

Another day comes to a close. The combination of the expanse of the vistas and the quietness of the sunset is very humbling. 
We dry back to Tortilis for an amazing dinner that awaits us and some R&R. I am ready for some J&T (and make my first one a "double-double" as D coined it).